The Ship of Fools

(1577)

We are those fools who could not rest
In the dull earth we left behind,
But burned with passion for the West
And drank a frenzy from its wind;
The world where small men live at ease
Fades from our unregretful eyes,
And blind across uncharted seas
We stagger on our enterprise.

Starboard and port, the lean waves leap
Like white-fanged wolves about our prow,
Where Mary with her Christ asleep
Is carved to hear the wanderer’s vow.
The thirsty decks have drunk our blood,
Our hands are tettered from the oar;
Wan ghosts upon a spectral flood
We drive towards a phantom shore.

And we have sailed in haunted seas
Dreadful with voices, where the mast
Gleamed blue with deathlights, and the breeze
Bore madness, and have stared aghast
To see beyond our splintered spars
That rattled in the shrill typhoon,
A heaven strange with tawny stars
And monstrous with an alien moon.

Lean, naked, bruised, like famished slaves,
We shiver at the sweeps; each one
A jest for all the scornful waves,
And food for laughter to the sun.
But never voice, not deathlight flare
Nor moon shall stay us with their spell,
Whose eyes are calm as God, and stare
Confusion in the face of Hell.

The worn ship reels, but still unfurled
Our tattered ensign flouts the skies;
And doomed to watch a prudent world
Of little men grown mean and wise,
The old sea laughs for joy to find
One purple folly left to her,
When glimmers down the riotous wind
The flag of the adventurer!

O watchman leaning from the mast,
What of the night? The shadows flee;
The stars grow pale, the storm is past;
The blood-red sunrise stains the sea.
At length, at length, O steadfast wills,
Luck takes the tiller and foul tides turn;
Superb amid majestic hills
The domes of Eldorado burn!

The Ship of Fools by St. John Lucas

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Waiting…

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South Georgia scenes

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Sub-Antarctic Life

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“I had many pleasant rambles and excursions on the Island, and each time was more deeply impressed by its wild and rugged mountains, its terraced glaciers, and beauteous fjords. Here one can study sub-Antarctic life with all its attendant charm… Our good friend Rasmussen took parties of the expedition, self, included, to the far reaches of Moraine Fjord, and the Nordenskjöld Glacier. Moraine Fjord I mention specially on account of the lasting impression I retain of it. A narrow waterway extending some two miles between jagged and escarped mountains, where nature admires her work in a liquid mirror. At the head of the Fjord are three glaciers that take their rise near the majestic base of Mount Paget and whose occasional boom and crash precede the dislodgment of icy fragments, the only sound that awakes its echoes… We visited Royal Bay, Gold Bay, Hund Bay, and Larsen Harbour. The fifty to sixty miles of coast seen, presented an unbroken chain of rugged mountains and peaks, interspersed with bays and glaciers. Larsen Harbour exceeds in grandeur Moraine Fjord, being almost entirely landlocked, the jagged and pinnacled mountain crests peeping through cloud, look down precipitously on the placid surface of liquid reflections. Larsen Harbour rivals — nay, excels — Milford Sound, New Zealand…

— Frank Hurley, Diaries

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I know you are not the type of woman

“I dont pay very much heed to the things you said about him [Sir Sidney Boulton was the man Emily had originally intended to marry and also Shackleton’s underwriter at Lloyd’s of London], for I know that you are not the type of woman to be carried away especially with your eyes open and after all the children are an asset and an anchor to you.”

— letter to Emily

[“A sort of flashlight view of the insurance situation from the beginning of the eighteenth century down to this evening…”: from Lloyd’s, Its History, Its Organization and Its Activities, Sidney Boulton, 1921]

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We longed keenly for the day

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“We longed keenly for the day when we could begin this march, the last great adventure in the history of South Polar exploration.”

— Ernest Shackleton, South

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The crew

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The crew of the Endurance, and Aeneas Mackintosh, captain of the Aurora, before setting sail from London, 1914

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Huberht Hudson, Navigator

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Huberht Hudson, Navigating Officer

“[Hudson] owed his nickname — Buddha — to a practical joke he had fallen for once while the ship was at South Georgia. The men had convinced him that there was to be a costume party ashore … and any man who had seen South Georgia with his own eyes — its glaciers and rugged mountains, the stink of whale entrails rotting in the harbor — and who could believe it to be the scene of a costume party … but Hudson did. They got him to remove most of his clothing and they dressed him in a bedsheet. Then they tied the lid of a teapot on his head with pieces of ribbon running under his chin. Thus attired, he was rowed to shore, shivering in the icy blasts that howled down off the mountains. A party was held at the home of the whaling factory manager. But when Hudson walked in, he was most assuredly the only one in costume.”

— Alfred Lansing, Endurance

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Ramparts of Mt. Paget

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The ramparts of Mt. Paget, South Georgia Island, by Frank Hurley [image]

More on Mt. Paget

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When things are easy I hate it

“I have committed all sorts of crimes in thought if not always in action and dont [sic] worry much about it, yet I hate to see a child suffer or to be false in any way…I am hard also, and damnably persistent when I want anything: altogether a generally unpleasing character: I love the fight and when things [are] easy I hate it though when things are wrong I get worried. I am not going to write more in this strain I am a bit tired…and just wandering along.”

— letter to Emily Shackleton

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Nine men standing on beached sperm whale

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Nine men standing on beached sperm whale at Leith Harbour, South Georgia, 1913

“Although the results of the Dundee Antarctic Expedition of 1892-93 inevitably led to the conclusion that whaling in the Antarctic seas was not then a viable economic proposition, improvements in equipment did eventually lead to the development of a briefly thriving industry in that region. Scottish interest revived, but switched from Dundee to Leith, where three companies were involved: the New Whaling Co. (1908), the South Georgia Co. Ltd. (1909), and Christian Salvesen & Co. (1911). The South Georgia Co. established a factory at Leith Harbour in Stromness Bay, South Georgia, where this 1913 photograph shows a female cachalot or sperm whale (Physeter macrocephalus) at the flenching platform, on which it would be cut up to remove the commercially valuable parts.”

Royal Scottish Geographical Society

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